![]() ![]() 1) and Leeloo’s white crop top look (Fig. The second motif is that of more provocative and revealing street fashions for men and women, visible in Dallas’s tank top (Fig. 1), or more obviously in the costumes of Ruby Rhod (Child) (Fig. This can be seen subtly in the backless orange tank top worn by Korben Dallas (Pener) (Fig. Two aspects of Gaultier’s conception of 23 rd-century NYC fashion are particularly notable, the first being a general rejection of gender-specific fashion motifs. He knows the color, he knows the flavor of New York” (Pener). Besson said: “I wanted the best and that is Jean-Paul. This knowledge of New York City fashion was, in fact, why Luc Besson chose Gaultier for this project. Gaultier drew perhaps most from his own designs for the costumes in order to create street fashion that seemed familiar, yet unabashedly futuristic (Eloise). In creating 23 rd-century New York City, Gaultier did not simply imagine up a bizarre new style of dress for the future-his costumes for the film, though they vary widely, are all variants of contemporary ideas and styles of dress. T he Fifth Element primarily takes place in two locations: New York City and Fhloston Paradise. Although the film has since risen to cult status, the reason for its value is as disputed as it was upon its release-some consider it one of the “Best Worst Science Fiction Movies of All Time” (Woerner), while others consider it just one of the best (Plim et al.). International audiences loved Besson’s film, but American viewers and critics alike were puzzled by the story and the atypical sense of humor it brought to sci-fi (Trenholm). When the film finally premiered to audiences in 1997, reactions were mixed. Despite the film’s sci-fi setting, very little CGI was used on the film, which meant that more emphasis had to be placed on believable sets and costuming (Greenblatt Trenholm). Two years later, production resumed with a new cast-this time with Milla Jovovich, Bruce Willis, and Chris Tucker-though Gaultier stayed in charge of costumes (383). In addition to recruiting Jean Paul Gaultier to do the costuming-who was at the height of his career at the time (McDowell 108)-Besson cast Julia Roberts as Leeloo, Mel Gibson as Korben Dallas, and Prince as Ruby Rhod, but the film was ultimately put on hold due to financing issues (Loriot 383). In the early 90s, Besson began shopping around for a cast and crew for what would become The Fifth Element. Besson continued to work on the story as he became well-known in the French film scene with films like Subway (1985) and The Big Blue (1988). Luc Besson first began devising The Fifth Element when he was 16, inspired by French sci-fi comics like Jean-Claude Mézières’s Valérian and Laureline (Desowitz).
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